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Peignoirs: The History of One of Lingerie’s Most Glamorous Styles

The history of peignoirs - Shadowline Lingerie

When it comes to homewear, there’s simply nothing else as glamorous as a peignoir set. Typically light, floaty and decorated with lace, it’s a style that harks back to the silver screen starlets of Old Hollywood. But when did it actually originate, and is there a difference between a peignoir robe and a dressing gown or housecoat?

Antique hairbrush

Image © Yann Poirier

A cape to comb your hair in

First appearing in the late 16th to early 17th century, the earliest peignoirs were loose fabric coverings, cape-like in style and without sleeves, which were tied around the neck to cover the shoulders while brushing out one’s hair. Hence the name, which comes from the French word peigner meaning ‘to comb’.

This was simply a functional garment that prevented hair or cosmetics from getting on your clothes (which, underwear excepted, were washed far less frequently back then). Men, too, wore peignoirs while powdering their wigs.

Adding to their practicality, peignoirs offered a comfortable clothing option that would have been worn exclusively in the privacy of the boudoir, likely only over underwear or a nightgown – before the wearer had donned her corset for the day, or after she’d taken it off at night. Gradually, over time, they became more robe-like in shape.

And as peignoirs became more and more popular with ladies of a certain status, they became ever-more extravagant in design, even if they weren’t intended to be seen!

Velrose vintage peignoir set illustration

Vintage Velrose® 4301 peignoir set

The peignoir finally gets seen, at least on screen

They may originally have been created for practical purposes, but by the time cinema truly arrived on the scene, peignoir robes could be incredibly elaborate – often made from satin or diaphanously-sheer fabrics, lavishly trimmed with lace or feathers, and frequently worn with a matching nightgown for extra luxury.

No doubt Hollywood’s heyday, which was awash with portrayals of beautiful female leads shown lounging in their peignoirs at home, contributed greatly to maintaining this garment’s popularity well into the 20th century. And since those actresses naturally only wore the very best, it furthered the demand for exquisitely glamorous styles.

And to top it all off, the invention of nylon in the 1930s greatly brought down the price of sheer, floaty fabrics by offering an alternative to expensive silk chiffon. Peignoirs were now not only more desirable than ever, but more affordable than ever too!

Woman in vintage dressing gown sitting at vanity

Image: © Everett Collection Inc.

The peignoir vs. the dressing gown

While names such as peignoir, dressing gown, housecoat, robe and negligée sometimes get used interchangeably, when we hear ‘peignoir’ we typically think of the more glamorous versions. The ones that are made from the lightest of fabrics, and trimmed with the most generous amounts of lace or other pretty details.

To explain this difference, it helps to know that in the mid-19th century, a separate, unisex style was gaining in popularity. Inspired by the loose-fitting Asian banyan, Western morning gowns were usually made from heavier fabrics such as silk brocade or velvet. These were also robe-like, informal and intended to be worn only inside the home, but not necessarily just in the bedroom – their opacity allowed the wearer to maintain modesty in front of house staff, and would even be worn while receiving guests.

Over time, this morning gown or house coat evolved into the dressing gown – hence that’s what we tend to call the opaquer, less ‘boudoir only’ alternatives today.

Shadowline nylon peignoir set options

Shadowline© Silhouette Peignoir Set and Silhouette Tulip Hem Lace Nightgown

Modern peignoir sets

Love the vintage charm of peignoirs, or simply admire their timeless beauty? Peignoirs (and peignoir sets) may not be as ubiquitous as they once were, but they’re still a very popular option for bridal trousseaus, romantic gifts, or simply feeling comfortable yet incredibly glamorous when you’re at home.

Whether you’ll be wearing yours to sip your morning coffee, cozy up on the sofa or, as always intended, brush out your tresses each day at your vanity, we think you’ll love our Silhouette collection peignoir sets which are made from the floatiest nylon (with a touch of shimmer for extra elegance) and available in a wide range of colors to suit your aesthetic.

Choose between a set with a full-length nightgown for glamorous style with modest coverage, or one with a high-low tulip hemmed nightgown for a flirty twist on this lingerie classic. Both are 10% off compared to buying the peignoir robe and nightgown separately!

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