Lingerie History: The Evolution of Chemises, Slips and Camisoles

Left: image © Artycrafter. Right: Velrose® Full Slip with Wide Lace

As a company that was founded over a century ago in 1914, we’re fascinated with the history of intimate apparel and in particular, the history of slips – one of our signature products, and the first lingerie garment we ever made. But it’s impossible to talk about the origins of slips in isolation; learn a little about where they came from, and you’ll soon discover that their story is closely interwoven with the histories of chemises and camisoles.

So today, let’s talk about where these three lingerie types came from, and why at one point in history, you’d expect to wear a chemise and a slip-style garment together!

Old-fashioned chemises. Image © Average Images

Tracing the chemise's origins

Worn since at least the Middle Ages, long before the invention of the modern bra or panty, a chemise – also called a shift or smock – was originally worn by both men and women as the layer closest to the skin. Its purpose was to absorb body oils and odors, keeping the outer layers smelling fresh for layer (since those were washed infrequently.)

The original chemises were typically around knee length or just below, made from either linen or cotton, and had a fairly shapeless fit; unlike contemporary underwear which might lift, smooth or pad, it was what was worn over the chemise that created the desired silhouette of the day. Depending on the time period, that would have meant jumps, stays or a corset – all stiffened garments which shaped and supported the upper torso.

Corset cover – the predecessor of the modern chemise. Image © Photowitch

From corset covers to camisoles

In certain time periods, the chemise was left visible at the neckline. Hence the name ‘chemisette’ for a garment invented in the 19^th century specifically to fill in the neckline under a dress, but which stopped at or above the waist to minimize bulk.

An alternative garment that appeared around the same time period was the corset cover. These waist-length, usually-sleeveless undergarments masked the outline of the corset edge, reduced friction between the corset and dress, and might also be seen at the neckline, which is why they could be very elaborately-decorated with lace and ribbon trims. Sometimes called petticoat bodices, they eventually came to be known as camisoles.

Old, hand-embroidered cotton petticoat. Image © Gitanna

Introducing the slip

For centuries, the chemise would be worn with a petticoat (or multiple petticoats!). The two garments served different purposes: the chemise was there to keep everything else clean, while the petticoat was there to add volume and structure. As such, the petticoat typically had stiff flounces at the hem to push out the base of the skirt. The hem could also be trimmed with beautiful lace, since the longer petticoat might be glimpsed as the wearer walked.

After the invention of the corset cover or camisole, the next innovation was a garment which combined that and a petticoat into one. It was a single piece like a chemise, but wasn’t the same; the ‘petticoat combination’ was more fitted to the waist, flared at the base, and featured lace at both the neck and hem.

As fashions changed and silhouettes narrowed, it lost a lot of its volume and hence came to resemble what we now call a full slip.

Shadowline® Lace Trim Nylon Full Slip

Saying goodbye to the under-chemise

Between the introduction of closer-fitted underwear such as bralettes and tap pants, and the shift away from wearing rarely-washed corsets, by the 1920s it was no longer necessary to have a protective chemise between your body and the rest of your clothing.

But having that other, full slip-style layer just below your clothing was still appreciated since it created a desirable smooth line and added opacity under the sheer, lightweight fabrics popular at the time. And so, the slip stuck around!

Sometimes an under-layer is still necessary! Image © Vitalii Tiahunov

Slips vs. built-in linings

Slips remained an essential, everyday part of a women’s wardrobe for many decades. Over time however, as hemlines rose and more and more clothing was manufactured with built-in linings, they became less prevalent. At least for a while.

In today’s world of fast fashion and cost cutting, even from many premium brands, built-in linings are once again becoming a rarity and so the slip has made a comeback. It’s still the best solution for a multitude of wardrobe problems ranging from too-sheer fabrics to visible underwear lines, and, along with camisoles, adding modesty to a low-cut neckline.

Velrose® Lace Snip-It Adjustable Length Nylon Half Slip

Slips, camisoles and chemises today

Full slips now have taken the place of the original chemises – although worn over other underwear, they are otherwise intended to be the layer next to the skin, and one of the benefits of a slip is that it forms a barrier that keeps your outer clothing cleaner for longer. Meanwhile, the word chemise has now become much more associated with a style of sleepwear.

Additionally, half slips and camisoles now offer versatility in an era where it’s very common to wear a top with a skirt or pants in place of a dress, and so a full slip isn’t always appropriate. Lingerie is perpetually adapting to changing fashions.

Shadowline® Rochelle Satin Adjustable Strap Camisole

How modern slips, camisoles and chemises reflect their heritage

Many full slips, half slips and camisoles feature stylish lace trims at the neck and/or hem, harkening back to the lavishly lace-decorated corset covers and petticoat combinations they evolved from. You can still find them made from cotton, as well as somewhat more modern fabrics such as nylon which was popularized in the 1940s. And chemises nightdresses, like their namesake chemises from eras past, have a relatively straight silhouette, although they now serve an entirely different purpose and are made from a greater variety of fabrics including pretty satin.

Discover our full range of slips and camisoles here, which work for today’s clothing styles while retaining a touch of vintage-inspired charm!