Left: a vintage Velrose® lingerie design from our archives

Right: the Shadowline® Silhouette Vintage Babydoll Nightie in Blush

The most recent addition to our romantic Silhouette collection is the Vintage Babydoll Nightie  – a piece that, like the name suggests, was inspired by the original vintage nylon babydolls of the 1940s, 50s and 60s. Interested in learning more about the origins of this iconic sleepwear design, and how it got its name? Let’s dive in!

The creation of the babydoll nightgown (and babydoll pajama set)

It may now be a symbol of femininity and seduction, but the babydoll’s short silhouette was one born simply out of practical necessity. American lingerie designer Sylvia Pedlar, founder of the now-defunct brand Iris Lingerie, first introduced these extra-cropped nightgowns in 1942 in response to the fabric shortages that happened during World War II.

Her early designs were often made from ultra-light materials such as chiffon and cotton batiste. The style quickly caught on and spread from brand to brand; soon, stores and catalogues were packed with all manner of variations in fabrics such as rayon, silk and sheer, light-as-air nylon. 

Today, a babydoll nightie is typically offered with a matching panty or thong (like our matching Lace Cheeky Panty). Many of the original babydolls however were sold not as nightgowns but as ‘babydoll pajama sets’, accompanied by shortie bloomer bottoms that just peeked out from under the hemline. The top part could have been a pull-on style, or it might have had a button or ribbon fastening at the front.

Some designs were empire line while others flowed directly down from the shoulders. Some were sleeveless, while others had short sleeves – puffed, of course, to match the voluminous silhouette. But throughout all of these twists on the original look, what always defined the ‘babydoll’ was its ultra-short hemline, exaggerated loose fit, and overtly feminine touches such as lace and ruffles.

Shadowline® Silhouette Vintage Babydoll Nightie in Silver

Behind the babydoll name

The term “baby doll” had first been used to describe a dress with a similar silhouette in a 1912 novel, comparing it to the dresses worn by Victorian dolls, and gradually began to be used to refer to this new nightgown cut.

However, it wasn’t until the release of the film Baby Doll in 1956, in which the main character wears this nightwear style (as a pajama set complete with matching bloomers) that the term really entered into mainstream vernacular, and the sleepwear silhouette became more desirable than ever – one of the key looks that defined the 1950s lingerie wardrobe.

Sylvia Pedlar, as it happens, never liked the name ‘babydoll’ herself and refused to use it!

Shadowline® Silhouette Vintage Babydoll Nightie in Navy

Babydolls debut as outerwear

Between 1957 and 1958, possibly inspired by its skyrocketing appeal in sleepwear design, Cristóbal Balenciaga popularized the same short, ultra-flared silhouette in haute-couture design. A few years later, celebrities including Twiggy, Brigitte Bardot and Jane Birkin all adopted a similar look as fun, rebellious and down-to-earth daywear in the sixties and then seventies. The babydoll was no longer just an item of nightwear; it was a full-on fashion movement.

The popularity of babydolls in sleepwear has cycled up and down over the decades, but these flirtatious designs have never completely left our nightwear wardrobes since their debut – and right now, they’re seeing a surge in popularity again.

A range of celebrities such as Olivia Rodrigo and Sabrina Carpenter (who favors retro lingerie-style designs in sheer fabrics) have brought the garment back into the limelight in recent times. Just this year, digital magazine Byrdie declared that “The babydoll dress is summer's It item”, and babydoll nightgowns are also trending.

Shadowline® Silhouette Lace Cap Sleeve Pajama Set in Ivory

Get the vintage babydoll look today

Love the light, floaty look and undeniable femininity of real vintage babydolls? Our empire-line Silhouette Vintage Babydoll Nightie is crafted from a mixture of soft stretch lace and Satintrique®, a 100% nylon fabric just like many 1940s, 50s and 60s babydolls were made from. It’s featherlight for a floaty fit, and has a subtle pearlescent sheen for added glamour.

Prefer a style that flows down over the bust and comes with short sleeves? You can also get an authentically vintage look with the top from our Silhouette Lace Cap Sleeve Pajama Set. We’ve paired it with a long, semi-sheer pant, but you can also wear it with the Silhouette Lace Cheeky Panty for a different, still perfectly-coordinated look. Each of these three pieces is currently available in 5 to 8 colors to suit your style, including retro-inspired pastel Peri Frost.

The babydoll nightgown may be over 80 years old, but its feminine allure and loose-fit comfort translate perfectly to the modern day. Whether you love vintage-style nightwear or just want something a little sexy, it’s the perfect choice for summer sleepwear!